There are a number of different waxes that can be used for candle and wax melt making. Each of them have different properties, uses and pros and cons. Each one has a different melting temperature, temperature for adding fragrance, and pouring temperature (which I will not go into in this article as this is an overview of each). Each one has different suitability for different purposes and there are different ethical and financial factors to take into consideration in addition to your own personal preference.
Beeswax
This type of wax is a natural air purifier as it gives off negative ions and is produced by worker bees as a natural by-product of the honey-making process
It is available in varying qualities, the lowest of which is brood wax. This is the beeswax that was used to house the bee larvae in the beehive. As this is often left in the hive over a period of time, it becomes darkened from the honey and other detritus meaning that it has to be strained and processed before it can be used for candle making. Capping wax is the golden wax that is commonly used for candles and is much cleaner than the brood wax but still needs to be processed before using as it can contain various detritus from the hive. Next is the cleaned yellow beeswax which is more expensive but can be used without any processing by yourself so is often the most popular choice for candle making. Finally there is White beeswax which is the purest and most expensive type as it contains no debris. It has been filtered through a carbon filter or bleached by UV light treatment. It lends itself better to colouring than the golden wax and is the type of beeswax that I most often use.
It can be obtained either in blocks (usually 100g each), pellets, or sheets which can be rolled and used to make pillar and tapered candles without the need for moulds. The pellets are quicker and easier to melt down ( blocks are extremely difficult to cut or grate). As it is a very hard wax and burns at a high temperature it works really well for pillar candles due to its strength and the fact it shrinks when set making it easier to remove from moulds. It is also a little tacky when set. Due to its strength it is often added to other waxes to harden them. I generally use a mix of soya wax and beeswax for this reason.
Soya Wax
This came into use in the 1990s and is available in various forms such as flakes, pebbles or solid blocks. This is a completely natural wax which is vegan and cruelty free being made from the oil of soya beans. As it is a softer wax it is best used for container candles and not so successful for pillar candles unless you mix it with a harder wax. It is a clean burning wax with a good scent throw. The finish is creamier and more opaque than the harder waxes and suits more pastel shades of colour as you would need to add a great deal of colouring to get a deep or vibrant colour.
It is thought that soya wax is better for using with essential oils as it keeps the scents better and releases them gradually. In addition to being blended with paraffin wax (Parasoy Blend) it can also be blended with beeswax, palm wax and other kinds of wax. It is proven to be clean burning, eco-friendly and sustainable. It is also known as One-pour or single pour – soft enough that it won’t shrink after it is poured into the containers and hardens, so doesn’t release and leave a cap between the candle and the container, this is also, in addition to it’s softness, why it is unsuitable for pillar candles or those made in a mould from which they have to be removed.
Paraffin Wax
This was Introduced in in 1850 and has remained the mostly commonly used candle-making wax. Is clear when melted and gives a better scent throw but there are some concerns about the fact that although the amount is minimal and should not cause harm to people, when burned it releases carcinogenic benzene and toluene into the air. It has long been the traditional base for candles and is a by-product of the petro-chemical industry which is refined by bleaching and has acrolyn to solidify it. t is fairly transparent so colours are more vibrant and visible and it has a better scent throw than soya wax.
Parasoy Blends
As the name suggests these are a blend of paraffin and soya wax.
Soya and Coconut Blends
These give you the benefits of both waxes but are less costly than pure coconut wax.
Gel Wax
This comes in the form of a lump of gel which you then melt and pour. It does not set hard but stays in a gel-like consistency and is translucent so look good with glitter or other suitable decorative elements included in them. It can be used on its own or mixed with other waxes but is obviously unsuitable for pillar candles.
Coconut Wax
As with soya wax, this is obtained naturally from the flesh of the coconut and burns slowly and cleanly with a good scent throw. It is more expensive than other waxes but is often worth it. It can be blended with other waxes such as soya and rapeseed.
Rapeseed Wax
This wax acts in a similar way to soy wax and has similar scent throw and burn times. It is generally grown more locally in Europe. At will start to melt at around 110 degrees F it should be kept out of the sun.
At Nordic Hare, I use soya or a blend of soya and coconut for container candles. For wax melts I use a mix of soya and beeswax which also works well for pillar candles. If making a taller pillar candle I would increase the percentage of beeswax.
There are of course other waxes available which I chosen not to include in order for this article to cover the main, and most popular types for someone thinking of candle or wax melt making. Beeswax, Soya Wax and paraffin are those most commonly used, along with various blends of these and other vegetable based waxes.
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